Fat Americans- The Malaysian Insider
September 8, 2010 - On a recent trip to the United States, I was struck, as a lot of people are by the signs of gross obesity all around me. It seemed as if food itself was about to go extinct, such was the frenzy of eating taking place. In cars, on the streets, in malls and in subways, practically everyone was chomping on a sandwich or a hot dog.
Fat Americans are everywhere and some are in genuinely eye popping shape. Of course obesity is a global problem, but it seems most on display in the US.
Sedentary lifestyles, bad eating habits and the ubiquity of junk food are all routinely blamed for this fat epidemic, and are the subject of much hand wringing in the media and the butt of jokes (bad pun intended) on late night television. But are the causes a little deeper than that?
Coming from Malaysia on a budget, the first thing that strikes one is that the cheapest food in America is also the unhealthiest. Fries, burgers, hot dogs, pizzas, wraps and sodas are everywhere. There is amazingly little choice beyond this if you want to eat cheaply. Historically speaking, American food should be a throwback to the England of its forefathers or of its African American and later other European immigrant heritage. But none of the subtlety of French cooking or the wide variety of African ingredients seem to be present. I would argue that the early settlers having to tame a vast and tough land by muscle alone, had to adapt their culinary heritage to this reality which meant making do with basic ingredients and large portions with an accent on energy and fat (meat and cheese) to power them.
Combine this with capitalism and industrial production and you have a set of people whose concerns are primarily material backed by a can do spirit and entrepreneurial vision. It’s the triumph of the hard working, hard drinking and essentially lonely work ethic exemplified in cowboy westerns. It is a time starved linear model with no room for sub texts. Therefore food must too be direct, in your face and provide immediate sensory gratification through overpowering textures and taste. It’s almost as if all other culinary traditions brought by immigrants from around the world have been elbowed out in favour of that great American invention, fast food. When there is no time or inclination to savour delicate aromas and flavours, quantity and sheer taste must suffice.
Today, though while there is no shortage of variety in the options available to Americans, healthy choices are surprisingly expensive. It’s not that surprising though when you think about the market forces and mass production that are required to lower prices. What people consume the most is what is cheapest, and what is cheapest is what people consume the most. While there is growing awareness of healthy eating, for it to be affordable it requires you to cook for yourself.
Contrast this with Malaysia, where we are surrounded by unending choices of culinary options, and which all of us are completely used to experimenting with and enjoying. Sure, some of these are unhealthy, but even discerning palates need a sensory overdose now and then. Cost is not a factor either, because of equal patronage of all culinary choices allows for pricing at all points on the spectrum.
Our history of multiculturalism is also one of culinary assimilation of which Nyonya food is just one by product. Our ambivalence towards material progress at any cost allows us to place enjoyment at par with achievement and spirituality, not as a reward for them. In our society, ideas are still competing, whether in politics or in leisure, at work or while eating. So no one ideology in any area dominates, allowing us to experience multiple options in every arena. Because we are not always in a rush to make a million dollars today, we can take the time to enjoy the small everyday pleasures of life like eating.
KFC, anyone?
Fat Americans are everywhere and some are in genuinely eye popping shape. Of course obesity is a global problem, but it seems most on display in the US.
Sedentary lifestyles, bad eating habits and the ubiquity of junk food are all routinely blamed for this fat epidemic, and are the subject of much hand wringing in the media and the butt of jokes (bad pun intended) on late night television. But are the causes a little deeper than that?
Coming from Malaysia on a budget, the first thing that strikes one is that the cheapest food in America is also the unhealthiest. Fries, burgers, hot dogs, pizzas, wraps and sodas are everywhere. There is amazingly little choice beyond this if you want to eat cheaply. Historically speaking, American food should be a throwback to the England of its forefathers or of its African American and later other European immigrant heritage. But none of the subtlety of French cooking or the wide variety of African ingredients seem to be present. I would argue that the early settlers having to tame a vast and tough land by muscle alone, had to adapt their culinary heritage to this reality which meant making do with basic ingredients and large portions with an accent on energy and fat (meat and cheese) to power them.
Combine this with capitalism and industrial production and you have a set of people whose concerns are primarily material backed by a can do spirit and entrepreneurial vision. It’s the triumph of the hard working, hard drinking and essentially lonely work ethic exemplified in cowboy westerns. It is a time starved linear model with no room for sub texts. Therefore food must too be direct, in your face and provide immediate sensory gratification through overpowering textures and taste. It’s almost as if all other culinary traditions brought by immigrants from around the world have been elbowed out in favour of that great American invention, fast food. When there is no time or inclination to savour delicate aromas and flavours, quantity and sheer taste must suffice.
Today, though while there is no shortage of variety in the options available to Americans, healthy choices are surprisingly expensive. It’s not that surprising though when you think about the market forces and mass production that are required to lower prices. What people consume the most is what is cheapest, and what is cheapest is what people consume the most. While there is growing awareness of healthy eating, for it to be affordable it requires you to cook for yourself.
Contrast this with Malaysia, where we are surrounded by unending choices of culinary options, and which all of us are completely used to experimenting with and enjoying. Sure, some of these are unhealthy, but even discerning palates need a sensory overdose now and then. Cost is not a factor either, because of equal patronage of all culinary choices allows for pricing at all points on the spectrum.
Our history of multiculturalism is also one of culinary assimilation of which Nyonya food is just one by product. Our ambivalence towards material progress at any cost allows us to place enjoyment at par with achievement and spirituality, not as a reward for them. In our society, ideas are still competing, whether in politics or in leisure, at work or while eating. So no one ideology in any area dominates, allowing us to experience multiple options in every arena. Because we are not always in a rush to make a million dollars today, we can take the time to enjoy the small everyday pleasures of life like eating.
KFC, anyone?
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